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If I insulate the floor in my basement, I think I have two problems. The first, which may be a non-issue but to add insulboard, then sleeper, then flooring will case the last step of the stairs to be a weird height.

Secondly, I am concerned about the clearance to the ceiling because I would like to install a hanging ceiling want to be able to get to the plumbing and wiring. Background 1: I have a 2 year old home. The basement so far is quite dry sandy soil and good foundation drainage. Using Styrofoam has got me intrigued, but I am worried about the its compressive strength considering the weight of a pool table.

So, what do you think of each of the following subfloor options Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab for a bamboo finish? With a fair amount of space to finish, cost is a consideration, but doing it right is a bigger one. If I use Styrofoam, what level compressive strength will I need to ensure no long term issues with the pool table? Kurt � I would go with option 2. What a product, and what helpful people on the phone! Of course, they were fine with either Delta-FL or Styrofoam for warmth.

That would mean 2,lb for a pool table. Since a heavy pool table is 1,lb, no problem. Thanks for all of your help. Kurt � AdvanTech is an amazing product.

Good luck. Also, we want to install the subfloor layers before framing the basement walls. Should we put the foam boards on the cement block walls before installing the flooring layers? And I am not usre what pressure treated sleepers are and am unsure if it is necessary.

The sleepers Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab are sometimes used and sometimes not used. It really comes down to a personal preference and there are many different variations of the same theme. Beneath the subfloor, we are putting PT sleepers around the perimeter of the room and then encasing the foamboard between the sleepers, alternating with sleepers in between each foam board sheet.

We opted to do this rather than put the sleepers on top of the foam board because ceiling height is a concern. We will ultimately put down laminate flooring. The gap certainly is good protection against expansion.

I plan to follow your recommendations in finishing up my basement. As mentioned in one of your responses that I could go with foam and advantec board on top of it without using sleepers if height is an issue.

Can you elaborate on the poly and its installation? I mean what product do you recommend and how would you install it? My furnace and Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab water heater are tucked in corner. Also what do you with the walls around them? I plan to get the finished part of the basement, spray foamed closed form for 2 inches but since there is not much space behind the furnace and the water heater, I am not sure what to do with it.

Tariq � When you use thinner layer of foam you need to install a vapor barrier. You can simply install a layer of 6 mill poly on the slab and tape all the seams. Then you can install the layer of foam followed by the sub-floor.

Do you want to remove the furnace? Probably not, so it may make sense to leave the existing insulation in place unless you suspect some type of mold problem. You just need to compare pricing and what options are most important to you.

Todd I live in Lubbock Texas had a lot of rain basement is Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab leaking had about 36 gallons of water I wet vac. Friend of mine said to use swimming pool paint to seal the basement floor and walls. But I was reading some other blog not to use it because pressure would build up and shift the foundation.

Any Idea what to use to seal it with? Mark � You actually need to fix the drainage problem. I would recommend a sump pump system or exterior drainage improvements. Todd Thanks for the great article and advice.

Is it recommended to apply a concrete waterproofing paint such as Drylock prior to putting down the 6 mil poly and foam board? Or is it necessary to let the concrete floor breathe I am reading conflict opinions on this topic. Joe � First off thanks for the compliment. In fact, concrete needs water in order to continue the chemical reaction that creates strength. So concrete frankly likes water! I think as long Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab as you put down the foam and seal the seams well there will be no issue.

Ed � That approach certainly should cut down on some moisture. I would try sealing a small area, then testing with a piece of plastic taped over it to see if there is any moisture build up. I have a few questions.

Is the pressure treated sleeper level that you recommend truly necessary or is my method going to be equally effective? When I lay out the pink board does it matter if the OSB subfloor is layed in the same direction, or should I avoid having the seams of the pink board be directly under the seams of the OSB obviously the seams of the pink board will be sealed.

Chris � There are many variations on the floor and yours is another method that many people use. I would definitely seal any cracks before you start, better to be Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab proactive than wish you had later. Be sure to seal the foam seams.

My floor is about 6 ft below grade, which is also below the frostline. Is my thinking correct here or am I missing something? The only other question is whether you have lots of moisture under the slab, do you have under slab drains? Well, there is a lot of moisture in the ground, however I have drain tile on the inside and outside of the foundation and although my sump runs alot, I have never had moisture inside. I should have done the floor first, but I changed my mind on a subfloor after seeing how effective the foam on the walls is.

What about applying a concrete sealer first, followed by the thinner foam? The local building inspector recommends putting down poly first, then the foam and OSB. He thinks without the poly I will have too much dampness between the foam Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab and concrete despite the fact that the foam will breathe some. I have also read about keeping the vapor barrier on the warm side however since vapor comes from the concrete in this case it may be a bit different.

The more I learn the more confused I get as all the locals seem to have different opinions. For me the key is always sealing the foam properly. Then you can seal around the perimeter with spray foam. Or sealer? Unfortunately, a nasty and timely thunderstorm caused a couple of leaks. That way any future leaks will run down the foam and under the floor to dry out without hitting any wood on the way.

Not the ideal solution, but probably better than future water getting in between the subfloor and foam. The Dricore website recommends building the frame on top of the Dricore. I had an idea to modify your method and I wanted to run Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Boat Foam Lab Diy Deck Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Deck Lab Boat Foam Diy Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab it by you. I was thinking of covering the walls with the foam insulation and sealing it with Tyvek tape and spray foam like your recommend.

Then I would lay down the Dricore and get that set in place with a small gap from the wall to allow it to breathe. Then frame on top of the Dricore as per their recommendations.

This should eliminate the need for either the composite decking base or for any pressure treated lumber. What do you think? Todd � I think it sounds like a good plan. With any of these things each situation is always a bit different.

I am designing a house and looking at how to insulate the basement floor in the walkout basement which will be used as living space including the master bedroom suite. I have the following questions about your described design. You recommend glueing the foam board to the concrete. Is this a bad Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab idea will it make the floor to unstable or is it just a waste because exposing the XPS to moisture is never an issue. You recommend putting in sleepers, which concentrates the floor weight on particular sections of the foam board.

Can the sub-floor be placed directly on the foam board and screwed into the concrete? You can screw the sub-floor through the foam and into the concrete. XPS foam can be purchased in at least two compressive strengths.

When used in high loading situations you can use the higher PSI version to compensate for the higher loading.

I am not worried about moisture coming up from the concrete through the XPS. I am worried about what happens to water that otherwise makes it past the waterproofing strategy used throughout the basement or should a toilet overflow, fish tank leak, etc. As stated on another website, the Delta-FL would preserve small drainage channels under the foam board Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab that would provide an air space for drying and a path to a drain if the problem was severe enough.

The real issue with water is will it cause mold and mildew to grow. Without the food, there will be no mold. Hi, thank you for such an informative website. I am wondering if what I want to do is a good idea or bad idea:. We have a basement in Maine that is unfinished. I am thinking about installing the foam insulation against the walls and installing 2x4s, and some sort of paneling like you did for your storage room.

Also I probably will not install any type of ceiling. Is this insulating the walls and putting up walls a waste of money if that is all I do? James � Not a waste at all. Basement walls are typically about 50 to 60 degrees year round. I would insulate any walls that you can afford Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Lab Deck Boat Diy Foam Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab to do. Our furnace is in the corner of the basement. Most of the basement would be carpet except for the bathroom and bar.

Do I need to be concerned about installing tile over this subfloor? Can I use laminate flooring instead? There are some pretty decent sheet vinyl products today that would work well.

There are groutable vinyl tiles on the market today that look very nice, get the look of tile without the cracking potential. Hey Todd, First of all great site. I have a couple of questions hoping you might be able to help me with.

Remodeling my basement, on top of the concrete floor there is an asphalt tile that is a real pain to get off was wondering if I had to remove that before putting the floor down?

If I used the high density foam would that be enough strength to support a bar? I planned on putting a layer of Boat Diy Deck Lab Foam Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Lab Foam Diy Deck Boat Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab poly on top of the tile have moisture problems on occasion. Height issues. First off not sure exactly what an asphalt tile is. I have a basement floor that slopes towards a drain in the middle. It seems the original owner intended on using this room as a garage. It poses a challenge for me to get the floor level before I install a sub floor.

Is it OK to bury the drain in the middle of the room with something like self-leveling compound? Rich � Self leveler will work fine.

Never know when you might need it. Hey Todd, Thanks for the help before and now I have another question. Around the perimeter of my basement a french drain was installed. There is a gap it looks like for the water to go down. Over the gap there is a piece of stripping or something that looks like it is to direct the water into the Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Lab Foam Boat Deck Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab french drain if it runs down the wall.

I was wondering what you think i should do about installing the floor and if I should leave it open. Thanks for your help, Frank. I think the foam can probably go down to the floor as water behind it should be able to get down.

The shower is an interesting issue. For that situation I would discuss it with some tile guys. Great site! Thanks for all the advice. I have a couple questions about insulating floors. Do they not experience the same potential condensation issues because the ground below slab stays warmer than the air outside a wall?

Is the need to foam all edges and create a vapor barrier not as great with the floor? With the Advantec distributing some of the load I think it will handle the static loading recommendation.

I would install the XPS around it. What are your thoughts? Dave � Thanks Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab for the compliment. You seem to speak my type of language�. As far as foaming the edges I think it depends on how you do this. If you do the wall first then the sub-floor I think you might consider sealing the gaps to prevent moisture from coming up to the finished floor edges.

I would go with the higher strength foam even if you just buy enough sheets where the table will sit. Todd � thanks for the feedback. Right on track about the engineering background. I was unable to find high load foam in less than full lift quantities.

So even with the pool table, I will go with a strength Pactiv board that was stocked locally. I may use some pads in the floor or small risers to distribute the pool table load. A follow-up question on GSPro foamboard adhesive: do you have a rule of thumb for how panels you can bond out Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab of a can? I have to mail order the cans and have no feel for how many to order.

Dave � The amount of foam varies greatly. If I had to guess probably 6 to 8 sheets per can if you go lightly. Thanks for all the info. Pun intended. When they dug the basement they created a saucer shape under the slab and back filled with pea stone. In the summer only, with the warm moist air I have a lake on my floor and damp walls about 3 feet up. The room will only be used for storage.

The area is 15 X 25 and I can go from wall to wall without worry of the floor moving. Do you think I can go without gluing and nailing and let gravidy do the work? Should I use a vapor barrier? Thanx Ed. Todd I think my attempt at humor made it sound worse than it Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab is. I do have a sub pump set up but it runs every 2 to 3 min without any effect on the water level under the floor.

Without the pump running the water stays at a constant level under the slab but there is a constant flow of spring water under it keeping it cold in the summer. I only have a problem in the summer when the warn moist air off the lake comes in contact with the cold cement. I was hoping that inslulating the floor and walls would stop the moiture problem. With that said do you think this would help and if so are the steps in my earlier post correct?

Ed � This approach may work. Currently we have Delta-FL and laminate and it is very cold on the feet. Due to the layout of the stairs we cannot get big items into the basement. Therefore I am essentially limited to subfloor Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab tile products dricore etc. The basement is dry with average humidity levels in the summer. Questions: Can I put these subfloor tiles on existing laminate?

If not, is there a problem installing these over the existing Delta-FL? However, I think putting it over the Delta-FL would be ok. Does the specification for it mention what type of sub-floor restrictions if any it has? Will this make for a warmer and dry floor, or should I just tile the concrete and then put throw rugs down?

Elizabeth � That method sounds fine. What about the screws for holding the AdvanTech to the concrete. Thank you so much for responding so quickly! You want a solid surface for the tile. Todd, Thank you for all the info. I am removing drywall from finished, uninsulated stud walls in my basement and will have closed cell spray foam applied. Question 1 � Would an adhesive be sufficient for holding the concrete, Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab xps and advantech together without fasteners?

I am hoping to be able to leave the current stud wall in place. I have read nearly all of the basement floor questions and answers and notice that although you initially recommend sleepers over the XPS and under the AdvanTech, you seem to accept the elimination of sleepers in subsequent posts, so���.. As the house is very old I needed to replace all of the beams and posts, and I just finished doing this.

Do you see anything wrong with this method? If this would compromise the basement moisture-control I would add the foam and floor first but I am worried that the weight would compress the floor over time. What would you suggest, or would both work? David � The reality is there are so many ways to insulate a basement slab. The sleeper version works well when there is a chance of a bit of water. For really Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Foam Deck Lab Boat Diy Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab dry basements you can put the foam directly down.

Sometimes sleepers are easier to fasten down then you can get a good solid plywood layer down. All structure should sit on the foundation, NOT foam. He has installed and is still installing it but he has also seen many cases of ant infestation with the ants boaring tunnels into the XPS and doing something with the contents � moving it, eating it, who knows.

Have you heard of this? To mitigate this I was thinking of wrapping the exposed ends with the tyvec tape � maybe that will keep them from starting their journey??? Good idea��.. I was just wondering if you had come across this ant problem before. David � California sure does have insect problems�I wonder if Termites like it as well? If you get an answer be sure to share with everyone here!

There is so much misinformation out there concerning basement finishing that Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab I almost gave up my project. I have concrete walls and floor and there are no water issues other than the ocassional dampness during the summer. I painted the walls with dri-lock. XPS will raise the floor too much. I know from your website there is no perfect way to finish the basement but please give me your thoughts on the way I intend to finish my basement.

Do you see any problems with it? Thanking you in advance Demetri. Hi Todd, I have read much of your website and I am unsure about 2 things. Do you leave a space? Do you seal it with spray foam? Thanks Again Demetri. Do you recommend vapor barriers for the floors? Will DriCore, Delta-Fl or Barricade tiles prevent inwards drying and cause wetness to be trapped underneath?

Victoria � Are you referring to the report by the Building Science Consortium? The issue here is keeping that moisture away from Lab Boat Diy Foam Deck Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab materials that might promote mold.

I recommend a vapor barrier under any type of wood, carpet or non tile flooring. Although the energy savings of sub-slab insulation are not as significant as basement wall insulation, such insulations do offer a significant improvement in comfort and moisture damage resistance including against summertime condensation.

When slab insulation is provided, a sheet polyethylene vapor barrier should be located over the rigid insulation and in direct contact with the concrete slab.

As the slab will only be able to dry upward, the slab should be allowed to dry before finishes are applied. Impermeable interior floor finishes such as vinyl floor coverings should also be avoided. Obviously, this is not an option for us since we will have to insulate on top of the floor. Would you use poly on top of the concrete or just foam ot DriCore etc.

Victoria � I highly respect most of their work. What I have Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Lab Boat Foam Deck Diy Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab a hard time with is this notion of having to let it dry inward.

To me, there is no good reason to let it do that. Concrete is always full of water, it will never completely dry out. So�letting it dry inward means letting it expose water vapor to finished flooring materials. Barricade and DriCore are both good products. They will both make the floor feel warmer and they provide a nice airspace under the flooring. Thank you. What about the walls? Why not install poly between concrete walls and XPS following the same logic?

Victoria � Yes poly on the floor is a good idea. There is some literature that suggests that 2 inches of XPS foam may in fact be a semi permeable although I think the amount is negligible. In response to the comment regarding placing a vapor barrier down, then the tiles, i was in contact with a rep for barricade tiles and Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Lab Boat Diy Foam Deck Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab I asked:.

Our tiles are milled to create an air tight, gasket seal vapor barrier. You do not need, and we do not recommend, anything other than our tile to be laid on the concrete. So just an FYI for people that are thinking of doing this. I thought it would be good to place a 6 mil barrier too, but according to them, they say no.

Steve � Thanks for sharing. They are trying to sell their product with as many benefits as necessary. Saying you can eliminate the vapor barrier is a plus in their book. I would like to thank you for taking the time to answer my questions.

I have found your remarks to very informative in what seems to be a very controversial issue. I like many others would like your advice on finishing my basement in Northern Illinois. After reading all your advice from others I have some questions regarding Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab my project.

Will those supports need to be pressure treated as they will sit on the foundation wall? By doing the floor first you can better insulate the entire slab. I would still use PT in case you get any water that might wick up. I would install blocking between the rim joist and first joist, up off the concrete, then no need. XPS if I will have a pool table?

Thanks again, Mike. Having trouble finding Advantech locally. Also having second thoughts on the sub-flooring. Thinking about using DRI-core.

Have you any thoughts about this product? If I use these panels do they need to be secured to the concrete? Since the walls are built on these panels will I need a P. What do you feel would be the best approach?

Any considerations I should take? However, it will make the floor MUCH warmer. According to their site there should be no attachement:. Should the Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab insulation set on top of the DRIcore or extend all the way to the concrete floor? Also would the floor be warmer if I use EXP vs. Thanks, Mike. XPS foam will definitely be warmer.

However, DRIcore will provide a huge benefit over flooring on the concrete. DRIcore is far easier and faster. Hi Todd, With the advice and help from your site I have insulated my basement walls and I am preparing for the floors.

I have a question re the adhesive for the floor. There is more moisture on the floor than the walls so I want to make sure I use the correct adhesive there. What do you recommend for the floors: caulking adhesive like PL or the spray foam like Great stuff? David � Either one will likely work ok. Just wanted t say great article.

You techniques and building science are definitely sound, and endorsed by other contractors. Mike even used a Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab similar technique for walls on a second story addition that went wrong from a previous contractor, where he used rigid foam as exterior sheathing with the proper bracing of the structure to take into account the lack of plywood sheathing , and spray foam onto that to really bump up the R value.

My basement is currently finished on the outside walls and flooring. I am not happy with the current flooring colour and finish. It is currently carpet and an out of date carpet at that. There is also no bathroom in the basement, and I will be adding a sewer pump and piping in the floor for that. My questions:. I used to have a basement bathroom in a previous house, and the floor was freezing as the tiles were laid onto the concrete�.

I want to avoid that. I want to use a hydronic system. Can I add the pex in between the strapping to Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab add the in floor heat? What problems could I anticipate other than the obvious leaks, etc?

Can I anticipate any problems such as expansion? Does this technique seem like a sound way of tying into existing insulated walls? Thanks again for all your time with the article, and I really enjoyed the answers to the questions of others you provided to others on this page.

Ryan � Thanks for the kind words. Laminate and engineered floors work great with radiant heat. I have engineered floors in my home and they work great. Yes � I would be sure to use low expansion foam. Not in my opinion for areas with tile.

Hey Todd, Great info here. This has become my best go to spot for basement info. The thing is. Option 1. Given that my basement is dry well, as dry as basements are.

How would you approach this if ceiling height and cost was a concern, Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Foam Boat Deck Lab but you wanted to be sure it was done right? Do you want to insulate the floor? Do you just want to keep things dry? How much headroom do you have available? Depending on how you answer those then you can select a method. There are LOTS of methods including in addition to plywood and foam. However, they will make the floor warmer.

I guess it makes to insulate and keep dry. And if so, I already have my walls up so, would I seal the poly up just as it meets my pressure treated bottom plate? Your method will work fine. If your walls are up already i would just tuck that poly up the walls a few inches and tack it in place. Todd, I was just wondering If you had to choose between dri core and barricade which would you go with?

Barricade will give you some insulation value but the system is tight Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab to the floor. DriCore will give you an air space below but no insulation value other than the air space. So�the questions is�which is more important to your basement, insulation or an air space?

Any past water issues? That really is the issue. I will be in a new construuction home starting later this month so I hope there are no water issues but you never know. It was my understanding that the barricade had channels that helped drain and dry any water that gets under it also so I was leaning that way.

I think it Diy Boat Deck Foam Model does have some channels. With barricade should I do the floors first and then build the walls on top of it or walls first then barricade up to the wall? I know with the XPS you are supposed to fill the gaps along the perimeter with spray foam, the barricade instructions say to leave a half inch gap against the Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab walls should I spray foam it as well? Also they say its not necessary but would you lay plastic under the barricade?

If so would you tape the seams or just overlap it? I would leave the gap open, that way if any water does get behind the XPS is will fall into that gap.

Would venting the Dricore to a mechanical room be sufficient to allow the condensation to evaporate? Do I need some type of ventilation to draw that moisture from under the sub floor?

The idea here is to give good separation between concrete and other building materials that might be conducive to mold and mildew. But frankly I doubt it makes much difference. I think that having the air space under the panels is sufficient to help with drying. Not trying to repeat questions here.. I did read the whole page! But� I think the wall should be insulated first in my situation?? So: Diy Boat Deck Foam Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Lab insulate walls�bring flooring within a quarter inch of wall�.

Sound OK? Thanks again for all your help!! Roger � Your detail should work fine. Todd, One more question!! I need to remove the paint in order to bond the leveler properly. I may try a shot blaster too. I wanted to pass an idea by you�kind of a variation on the sleeper method to save some head room.

And would offset the cost of the composite material. I would then install laminate on top of the Advantech. Should I be putting any plastic down? I think my floor would be similar in principle to the square tile subfloor products. Any potential leakage would still get to the drain and there would be an air gap too.

Thank you for taking the time to advise on this. If you agree that I am on the right track you will have succeeded in removing a HUGE road block Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab in my project!!!! I have done numerous how to posts on car related items. I also did a detailed post with pictures when I took out my basement center lally column and installed some big MC-Channels.

Roger � Your approach should work pretty well. I guess my only question would be whether you plan on putting any substantial loading on that floor like a pool table. Other than that it should work very well.

Definitely putting the pool table down there! I thought the Trex would be strong enough? It may very well be. This is a new basement with no walls, etc. My question is will I be able to build all my walls directly on top of the insulated floor? Regardless of the approach you choose, XPS has a fairly high compressive strength. Some folks choose the sleepers because they want to ensure that the plywood is attached to something else vs trying to attach Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab it directly to the concrete.

Both methods will work fine. Do you have any articles or videos on building a load bearing wall in the basement? Currently we have load bearing beams ran down the center of the house with temporary jacks supporting it. We plan on building a wall which will have 3 bedroom doors throughout the entire distance. I understand you have to have load bearing headers above the doors but is the rest of the framing normal?

Thanks again for the help. Lots of your question is best answered by your local building official. However, in general here are the basics. Depending on the size doors you can likely get away with dimensional lumber door headers.

Having said that, if you go to your local lumber yard one that has an engineering department or specification group they can generally design the header and tell you what size options are available. If you have a Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab wider door they may specify an engineered lumber header. The other issue at play is the foundation. A traditional slab is typically not strong enough alone to take bearing wall loads.

Thanks for all the great information. In regards to the concrete supporting the load bearing wall how do I determine this? The house is a single level modular home with a walkout basement. It was built in We purchased this on foreclosure and have no information on the concrete psi strength.

Sometimes a contractor will pour a strip footing the entire length of the house instead of trying to form up a footing pad at each column. I would recommend going to your local building code office, and seeing if foundation plans were filed when the building permit was issued.

Most states, cities and towns do require this information to pull a permit. If you can find those drawings they will shed a ton of light Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Boat Diy Foam Lab Deck on the situation.

Why are you switching to a load bearing wall? Are you going to remove the beam that is supported by the columns? The basement is completely unfinished. All they have supporting the beam is them steel temporary jacks. There are no columns at all. The concrete floor shows no sign of them installing any columns either. The load bearing beam is down the center of the basement. First of all, your site is fantastic.

I have learned more from here and building science than anywhere else � the comments helps too. The slab is in great shape, no cracks or major high or low spots. My questions are:. Can my floor be insulated using sleepers to level it, or should I use self-leveling compound?

Does it even need to be leveled? The first question is, does it feel as though the floor is unlevel or do you only know it based on measurements? The Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab key here is comfort and how furnishings will sit, dressers sitting so they look level, etc.

If you need to level it there are many options. There are some commercially available ones that can do thicker but they are usually installed by specialty contractors. This poses a problem with the foam however, as each layer would be a different thickness and that might be fairly impractical. For leveling yes, for insulating no. Depending on the age of the tile there is a very good chance it contains asbestos.

If you can leave it that would be a good thing! Both would work fine. Obviously the more foam the better R value. Thanks again for visiting the site. Its only really noticable near the old sump pit where there is a more exaggerated slope. Would it work to lay the foam down and cut some pieces to fill in the dip near the sump pit, or spray foam Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab the dip maybe? Or should I just foam right against the concrete and level that part with sleepers on top?

Knowing that I can at the very least begin insulating my floor is a relief! I would just shim the area near the old sump pit. This way you help prevent water from coming up from below. Awsome site thanks! I have looked and asked and you have given more information on this one page than I have found anywhere.

I am starting the design process and hoping you could help with a few questions. First the basics two year old home, no moisture issues in basement as yet; 9 ft poured concrete walls with fiberglass insulation in rim joists; builder installed fiberglass on walls to below grade; home in southern Ohio. I plan to install a drop ceiling if this matters. I have a large area square ft that I plan to leave unfinished with storage Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Deck Foam Lab Boat Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Boat Deck Diy Lab Foam Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab and utilities and do not plan to insulate walls or floor will leave builder installed insulation in this area on walls.

If I insulate floor in proposed finished area how do I handle the floor transition at the door opening? Am I wrong in this method? I planned to lay on side longways like sheetrock then cut sheets to fit at top. Is this even possible without removing? I was going to sheetrock both sides and install kraft faced fiberglass insulation kraft facing warm side. Is this sufficient? Todd � Glad you found the site useful.

The builder installed fiberglass on the concrete walls really bothers me. Is the fiberglass in direct contact with concrete? The floor height issue is one that ultimately leaves many people opting out of insulating their basement floor.

However, there are some ways you can deal with the issue that are not overly disruptive. The problem however is a code issue. You Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab could also create a ramped transition if it really bothers you. The code requires that stair heights match within a certain tolerance. You could rebuild the stairs OUCH! Or you leave an area at the base of the stairs un-insulated, probably tile it, then have a step up into the finished space with the insulated floor.

This still leaves you with the issues I mentioned above for the utility space. Again you could try ramping it. That will work fine. When you do them vertically they stand up better during the drying process. The best approach is to loosen the box and slip foam behind it.

The insulation is in direct contact with the concrete. It appears to be CertainTeed fibergalass with perforated white polypropylene backing. Here is a link to their site:. The house hase a black rubberized sealant on the outside of the foundation walls. We have had record rainfall for the last couple of Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab months and overall for the year and not a drop knock wood in the basement.

If I do not insulate the floor I seem to avoid the transition issues. Can I still do the 6 mil poly and Advan Tech per mfgs. The lot will tell you more about your likelihood of having water than anything else. For my homes�. The reality is tile will be very forgiving if we ever get water.

Lots of good information on your website, finding it very useful. I plan on installing a mix of carpet and tiles on top of the plywood, so I would like to have the increased strength from the plywood and sleepers being directly attached to the concrete mainly for the tiles, but need to save as much height as possible.

Does this seem like a reasonable option? I think your approach is a good solution. I would use something like Ditra for the tile underlayment. As Diy Deck Boat Lab FoamDiy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab g> a test, a year after installing, I removed a small sample of XPS. Moisture is on the XPS, not on the concrete block. I cut out a bunch more samples. There is no moisture down near the floor, gradually more all the way up to the 2lb spray foam, which is right at ground level. No moisture behind the spray foam.

South side of the house has the most moisture but there is a small amount on the north side. I am sure the ground is moist, but I resloped my landscaping before putting up the foam board, and my house is near the top of a hill� I also put two coats of Drylok on the wall. So the problem is not standing water driving in.

Basement smells and feels dry. I am tempted to tear everything out and ventilate the wall instead of insulating it� not fun. I am also tempted to believe the Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab wall is sealed up enough to not cause any health problem if mold were to start growing, but that would be me being stubborn-stupid.

Mark � The moisture is located between the foam and concrete correct? The XPS acts as a vapor barrier and keeps that moisture from entering the framing. Am I correct about the location?

Yes, moisture is between the foam board and cinder block. Just hanging out, having a good time, not going anywhere. You say this is expected, i. Due to hot humid outside air and the coolness of the cinder block? The concrete blocks are full of moisture, all the time inside the micropoors of the concrete , that moisture can condensate and get trapped between the concrete and foam.

Foam and concrete are not food sources for mold so mold will not grow back there. I agree there are no problems yet at least, especially since the block is still pearl white.Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab

Do you have any recommendations for air quality monitoring? All I find is bad reviews. Ideally I could give myself some peace of mind by checking the air periodically to confirm it is within safe limits. Even more ideal would be constantly checking levels like a carbon monoxide detector � need Einstein to climb out of the grave and invent that.

Without a food source mold will not grow. Focus on controlling humidity and air exchanges. All will be ok. I am close to starting construction. Could contraction cause a problem with such an arrangement? The floor will be put down first, then the walls.

For the non-weight bearing interior walls, they will be built above the insulation. The question is what should they be built on top of: the XPS, the sleepers, or the advantech? I would let that slab cure as long as you can before installing the floor. Just to get as much moisture Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab out before you lock it in.

My contracter, architect, and structural engineer all recommended against attaching the sleepers to the concrete and to instead glue them to the insulation and the insulation will be glued to the concrete. But if movement is a concern, can any adhesive be trusted long-term? If glueing sleepers is a bad idea, is that just your opinion or is there some documentation I can refer my builder to because unless he changes his recomendation, I will go with what he recommends.

Thanks for the page � it is a great resource. Introducing the absorptive surface, in this case, would likely help to reduce the amount of sound making its way out of the vent.

Thank you for the article. Apartment situations are difficult because, as I mentioned in the article, blocking sound is done in the construction and assembly of the wall. Unless you can add a layer or two of drywall, Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab you are not going to be able to block much more sound. Small nails would do a fine job holding up some of our foam panels, but those panels are only going to absorb the echo within the room � they will not block sound.

Great article! I need to reduce the amount of sound that reaches my bedroom from the main part of my house. The entertaining space open floorplan is to one side of the entry and the sleeping space is to the other side. All of the bedrooms flow off of one very long and straight hallway that starts at the entry and ends at my room. The hallway is about 40 feet long, is 4 feet wide, and has 9 foot ceilings. There is no art or carpet in the hallway.

From my bedroom at the far end of the hallway, I can clearly hear everything being discussed in and around the front Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Lab Deck Boat Foam Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Deck Foam Boat Lab Diy Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab entry and the nearby living room. I feel like all of the sound from that part of the house is funnelled into my bedroom. This is true even when my bedroom door is closed. We have lots of people frequenting the house during the day and lots of conversations happening in the front entry.

This would not generally be an issue, but my wife sleeps during the day she works nights and all of the noise causes her to not be able to sleep withouth interruptions. Reducing the amount of conversations at the front of the house is not really an option.

Please help. Thanks for the question. There are a few ways you can address this problem. You can try a low-cost, relatively easy approach first and see what that does, or you can take the necessary steps to eliminate and fix the problem.

Begin by thinking about the problem like this � imagine that wherever Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab people are that this area is filled with water, from floor to ceiling. That water is going to flow and fill up the hallway. Once the hallway is filled with water, how is that water going to get into the bedroom?

That is where the sound leaks in. The low-cost, relatively easy approach would be to install a door seal kit onto the existing door that you have. This will help reduce the amount of air space that you have connecting the bedroom with the hallway. The parts would be attached to the door stop and the automatic door bottom to the bottom of the door.

If you want to properly fix the problem, I would suggest replacing your hollow core door with the heaviest, solid core door that you can find. Install it as you would install one of our soundproof doors would be installed. A PDF of the soundproof door installation instructions will help, specifically Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab page We also have a video on how to install a soundproof door that may be helpful After that is in, then install the heavy duty door seal kit onto the new, solid core door.

I am building a motorized lift for the lecturn of a pulpit for our church. I can easily connect the end of the actuator to the pulpit and the lecturn. However, a solid connection transmits the sound to the lecturn which acts like a loudspeaker.

I was thinking of some sort of sound absorbing block that I could machine to size. It should be able to support 20 or 30 pounds. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. In addition, I would like to wrap some sound absorbing material around the outside of the acutuator.

Or perhaps, it could be covered with some material which hardens in place. This is a very unique situation. The difficulty here is that the motor and Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Lab Deck Foam Diy Boat Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab the arm NEED to be screwed into the wood simply to hold it in place. Those fasteners are going to transmit vibration due to the hard surface contact. The only way to FIX the problem and eliminate the transfer of vibration is to decouple the moving parts from the wood.

I have a few ideas, but it could get a bit tricky. These would both allow you to attach everything together while eliminating the hard connection by adding in something to isolate the vibration. Hi Ted, I hava a 6 month old puppy with separation anxiety who barks a lot.

One wall is brick and I share it with my neighbor. I got this puppy while already living here. As a cute young puppy � I saw no signs of this anxiety. My neighbor is writing a book and home all the time. Since I rent, I do not have control over constructing the wall that is Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab between us. Any ideas to block his high pitched barking? I need some kind of solution. This is a really difficult situation to try to fix because of the fact that blocking sound typically means construction.

Whether it is done when the walls are initially put up, or altering the assembly of the wall later on � such as your case. The only way to increase the amount of sound blocked by the wall is to modify it. Since you are not allowed to do any sort of construction, this is where the problem lies. The first would be an acoustical quilted curtain � basically a really, really heavy curtain.

The second is Coat of Silence paint , which you would need to be able to paint your apartment to apply it. Wall-mounted panels like foam or cotton will only absorb the echo within the room � those types of products will not block sound. I think that Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab these practices may work in my situation. My next door neighbor moved from the country to the city. I think he is used to dogs barking loudly at all hours of the night.

I however am not. My bedroom window is only 5 ft from were the dog s like to run to and bark. My bedroom is a 10ftx10ft room with 2 windows. What would you suggest to block out as much of the noise as possible? Is there anything that I could hang on the walls? Would sealing the windows shut with a some type of material like wood help at all? Hello and thanks for your question. I assume that you have spoken to your neighbor and asked him to bring the dogs into the house at night?

Also, there are city ordinances that you may want to explore and bring to his attention. Regarding treating your space, there are a few options that Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Lab Foam Boat Deck Diy Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab you may want to explore.

If this were my situation, having seen quite a few instances of significant reduction, I would have our climate seal windows fabricated and install them on my two bedroom windows. These are acrylic plastic windows that snap into place with magnets � very similar to the seal on a refrigerator or freezer door. They are virtually invisible when installed. The pricing depends significantly on the size s of the window s that you have and I would be happy to provide you with a quote if you would like.

I would also strongly suggest turning on a small fan to create a bit of background noise aka white noise to make your sleeping area a bit louder, but in a comfortable way. If the climate seal window inserts do not offer the reduction that you need, you may want to relocate your bedroom to the other side of the house, if possible. Further Diy Boat Deck FDiy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab oam Lab steps to reduce the sound transmission could start to get relatively involved. However, next door neighbour has been logging on our door saying that she can hear the bass sound through the wall.

Please advise us what we can do? Boss is a We are thinking about to put a sizable sound proof panels on the wall behind TV unit which is at 2m x 1. Would this solution work?

This is a very difficult type of problem to try to fix because of the proximity of the subwoofer and because of the type of pressure these speakers produce. It is not surprising at all that you are getting complaints from a neighbor due to the bothersome low frequency noises and vibration energy that can physically shake the structure. Making the necessary changes to the structure would be very involved and quite likely, very expensive.

Do we need to worry about more echoing in the auditorium Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Foam Deck Boat Diy Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Foam Lab Boat Diy Deck taking down the paneling? This is, of course, dependent on the wood, if there are any gaps, cracks and especially if there is an air space behind it. I have built a gym in one of the rooms in my flat, and my problem is that when i punch the boxing speedball, my neighbourg at the flat underneath me can actually hear it. Now when installing a speedball bracket to the wall, the screws hang within the brick wall.

So my question is, what would be the best way to stop them from hearing the noise coming from the speedball hitting the platform, and after that, what would be the best way of stopping the vibrations traveling down the wall? Using which materials for what? If the vibration and impact energy is being transmitted into the wall and being carried down through the structure as a vibration, you are likely going to need to move the equipment.Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab

There are not any kind of isolators that I know of that would allow direct wall mounting that would reduce enough energy from the impact to make a difference downstairs. This could very well be a very site-specific problem that will need to take into account quite a few things. Because I am not there to have a look, there is only so much I can do to help. The first thing that comes to mind would be to build some kind of wooden, free-standing structure and put the entire contraption onto a rubber isolator or series of spring isolators.

This would allow the structure to move independent of the structure and the vibration and impact energy would have a more difficult time getting to the structure. I am doing a science project on blocking not absorbing sounds.

I have a guitar amplifier that will be plugged into a computer to produce a sound. Do you have Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab any suggestions of how i can cover the amplifier from all sides in the different materials i want to use and maybe some suggestions of cheap materials that are easy to apply.

And im not sure if the sound comes out all sides of the amp. The first thing is that your barrier has to be air tight. I would first build a box out of plywood, put it straight over the amp, and turn it on. Take three measurements with this setup and average those. Then I would add some weather stripping to the bottom of the box and repeat the test three times.

Make sure you keep your cuts straight and seal all of the seams. Build this second box so that is leaves inches of air in between the plywood and sheetrock box. Unfortunately the sound from it reverberates across the courtyard and is quite noticeable in my apartment. Alas, out of this pipe, Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab along with a powerful stream of air came a very powerful high frequency whine.

I considered this good news, because the source of this noise is isolated and relatively small in size � a inch diameter, downward pointing outlet pipe made of pvc. Because the source is isolated in this way, it seems to me it should be fairly straightforward to build an aparatus to dampen the sound.

So much so that I doubt I would be able to hear it from my apartment. In lieu of hiring someone to stand there with their hands cupped a few inches under a pvc pipe, this leads me to my main question � Do you have any suggestions on what would be an effective apparatus for dampening this sound? It should be resistant to the elements. It should be fairly simple and fairly inexpensive.

This is just an idea, though� I was hoping I could get some advice from Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Lab Deck Boat Foam Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab someone that has experience in the area of sound reduction. Is there any chance you could take and share a photograph of this, please? A picture of the situation would be a great help to me.

I do, however, have two ideas. Even building a box out of plywood and filling it with sand would likely reduce the amount of sound reflecting off of the ground and filling the court yard. The other idea would be to use an exterior grade plywood and build a three-sided, free-standing structure around the pipe. I would probably start by building it using three walls with the potential to add a roof section later, if needed.

This structure could be built around the exhaust so that the sound and air that escape are contained by the structure. Here are a few images I quickly threw together to illustrate the idea: It was a lot faster for me to make this pipe Boat Diy Foam Deck Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab using flat-surfaces rather than a rounded pipe.

I recently had a sprinkler system installed with a water pump. The water pump is so loud that it is waking us up when it starts up at 3 am. What sound proofing or sound absorbing material should I use. The pump is located outside. This enclosure can be built with commonly and regionally sourced building materials, like plywood. I have even seen enclosures where the cement-board like that used for bathtub surrounds is used to line the inside of the walls simply to make them heavier.

If you build something like this and you still have a problem, I would be happy to help you find something that we could supply that would reduce the sound further.

What very interesting and informative information. I would like advice on further sound insulation in my ground floor flat. I have had a suspended and isolated ceiling installed with material laid in Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Lab Deck Foam Diy Boat Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab the space between old ceiling and new one. This has sorted noise from tv, talking, music and has had a significant effect on heat retention.

However impact noise, footfall is still a problem. The flat is rented out and as I have a good relationship with the owners I am wondering what could be done from upstairs, whether it would be necessary to lift existing floor and insulate between joists or if just putting some sort of underlay down would work.

I have access to the stairs in an outside cupboard, would it be worth removing the plasterboard and filling the spaces between the treads, if so with what? Many thanks, Hermione. This is a rubber-based underlayment that would need to go down onto the floor upstairs and then covered with a finish floor.

This would help soften the footfall before that energy got into the structure. Hey, I have a unique problem. Our office has a Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab very quiet area. There is a large multifunction printer that was recently installed in the quiet area. People are annoyed and we want to reduce the noise levels in that area. The printer is enclosed by walls on two sides behind and right but is open in the front obviously and on the left. Short of putting a smaller printer in that area is there something that i can stick to the walls to reduce the noise.

I can install another wall on the left but have to leave the front open for people to walk in grab their print jobs. The space is not big enough to put the unit in a enclosure. Sound blocking will probably direct all the sound to come out from the front side which is open and sound absorption will only absorb echoes Is there another solution in this case?

There are a few ways to treat something like this. I Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab would probably start by putting a panel or series of panels onto the walls around and behind the machine. You can often get a decent amount of reduction simply by removing the reflective surfaces behind the noise source. This is also the least costly and least intrusive first step. If you happen to have a few photos of the space, it may help me and others visualize the problem.

Love the info on this site. I have a great room with high ceilings, lots of windows with no curtains, granite counters, and tile floors. It echos a lot. Would it help if I put sound absorbing foam of some sort on top of the kitchen cabinets near the ceiling that would be out of sight? There is nowhere to put panels on the walls or the ceiling. What would you recommend? I have had a few people put product on the top, unseen side of kitchen cabinetry Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Deck Diy Boat Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab and it will absolutely absorb some of the sound in the room.

Unfortunately, these areas are usually relatively large rooms which require more square footage of panels than will fit on the tops of the cabinets. In order to absorb sound, you need to cover a reflective surface with an absorptive surface.

Ted, We are upgrading our older home built in the fifties. We have a narrow hallway with three bedrooms and one bathroom door coming off the hallway. I recently replaced the hallow doors with solid doors to help cut down on the sound between rooms. He then filled the gap with foam all the way around. I could swear the noise problem is worse instead of better with the solid doors! What can we do? My contractor says if he pulls out the new doors and closes the rough opening down to a quarter inch with wood, the sound problem will be the same.

He Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Foam Deck Lab Boat Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab says the foam is a better buffer than wood. Any ideas? Your question about the installation of the door is a good one. As I have mentioned in this article, as well as quite a few other comments, sound always uses the path of least resistance first � a lot like water.

If you can fill one of these rooms with water, how is that water going to get from the room into the hallway? This is also where the sound will get out.

Hi Thanks for the great info and clear explanations. Very generous of an expert like you to help us beginners. I wonder if you could give me some advice before i waste my money on the wrong solution. Would it be fire proof enough for that purpose, and have the correct sound proofing properties.

Thanks heaps for any advice you can give, Mark. Basically, when you create an enclosure, there are a few Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Boat Diy Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab basic ideas to keep in mind. The walls of your enclosure need to have a decent amount of mass and density � they need to be heavy. The heavier something is, the more sound it will block.

Whether you use MDF board, sheetrock, plywood, cement � the heavier the better. I would absolutely line the inside of the enclosure with some kind of soft, reflective surfaces as well so that you do not create an echo chamber for the noisy machine. I live in a historical read old interior row house where the walls are all brick, block and plaster. We want to be sure that we can have them install a good solution.

They all want to build out the wall 11 x 11 and add soundproof sheetrock. What else do you recommend? We have two outlets, should they be wrapped in rubber?

Thanks, Mark. I am happy to offer some suggestions, but because I am Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab not there to look at the wall and experience the situation, I am going to have to make some assumptions that may or may not be correct.

So, if anything comes to mind based on my reply below, please feel free to let me know any additional information or details about the wall. Typically speaking, brick and block do a pretty good job at blocking sound. All good things when it comes to soundproofing. I would use a non-hardening acoustical sealant for those locations.

A good rule of thumb is that if you think you might need sealant, you need sealant. I would absolutely fill the stud cavities with a standard insulation, like fiberglass or cotton. All outlets in that wall should be backed with a putty pad. Blocking yet more sound, you could add the RSIC-1 clips to the face of the studs, then add the sheetrock.

Again, two layers would block more sound than one. In Diy Boat Deck Foam LabDiy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab g> my opinion, this is an extremely effective assembly, but may be overkill for your situation. I want to start a weekly or monthly gathering known as Penthouse sessions. I am a DJ and will be playing music from relatively loud speakers. I live in a penthouse that is about 2, square feet. Sound is very good within the rooms and never get complaints.

I only have one neighbor to worry about. The ones across the hall wont hear a thing. That being said, what do you recommend to the one neighbor that is next to me rather than across the hall.

Without anything I get pretty loud and nothing happens. But I would have for the social to get disrupted with a complaint. Great questions! I would like to begin by mentioning that the potential situation that you are presenting is going to be an uphill battle. In order to approach a situation like this properly, Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab it will require a fair amount of construction and modification to the wall and possibly the floors and ceilings as well.

There is a direct relationship to the type of noise frequency and the ease in which the frequency gets through whatever you put in front of it.

The lower the frequency bass , the easier the sound gets through the barrier. Low, bass frequencies almost always introduce a physical vibration into the walls, ceilings, and floor. In complete honesty, it is going to be more cost effective for you to send your neighbor to a nice hotel once a month getting them out of the building while your social gatherings are taking place than it will be to undertake the project to try and block the sound from bothering them.

I understand that you are not likely looking for complete silence on the other side of the wall � you are likely just looking to start to Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab reduce the problem.

I completely understand, I have approached this question a few hundred times in my ten years in the industry. So, on to answering your question. The steps necessary to start to reduce the problem would be as follows:.

This is not the only way to approach the situation � there are similar options out there that could likely offer some reduction � but no option will be as easy as putting up a few foam panels and calling it good. Another option is to start with a small gathering and increase both the size of the gathering and the volume until you get a complaint. Then scale back slightly.

Or just invite all of your neighbors over. I am not intentionally trying to take the wind out of your sails, but it is important for you to understand the nature of the problem and the potential extremity of the undertaking to offer some benefit Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab for this type of acoustical situation. Please let me know if you have any more questions or if you would like to discuss the situation some more. I recently moved into a condo renting and in my bedroom I share a common wall with some very chatty neighbors.

I need some cheap alternatives or suggestions as to what I could do besides my grand idea of using Heavy foam or work out mats to create a foot thick artificial wall to try to drown them out. Unfortunately the right answer to your question is not the one you are looking for. Blocking sound is something that is done in the assembly of the wall � not something that you can easily and cheaply put onto the wall.

Foam will not block ANY sound. Foam, panels, and the like will not reduce any of the sound and could potentially make the problem more noticeable to your ear because Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab the point of a wall panel is to reduce the echo and ambient sound in the room in which it is installed. You can read my explanation of sound blocking vs sound absorbing to better understand why this [�].

I am very appreciate of your blog on acoustics. The home is made of bricks and plastered on the inside. The roof is metal.

Because we live in a tropical country we do not need insulation like we do in the states. Our second floor has metal trusses, with wood trim to secure the waterproof flooring.

Our inside walls are made from eco-board recycled tetrapack containers that are 10mm thick. We need to keep insulate ourselves from the heat of a metal roof 2. We want to minimize the sound that comes in and out of the master bedroom. Our master bedroom is adjacent to our tv room. We do not have access to sound proofing materials where Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Boat Lab Foam Diy Deck Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab we live, but we do have styrofoam and fiberglass insulation. Will these materials help?

Our ceilings are also made from the 10mm tetraboard like the walls. The wall between the Master bedroom and tv room only goes up to the ceiling, but does not continue up in to the crawl space.

We are using a PVC material that looks like a hardwood floor beautiful stuff that is glued onto the waterproof plywood. Hello and thanks for the questions. This is a bit of a new situation for me to approach and I may or may not be able to help. The thermal issues and the sound blocking issue are going to need to be considered as two completely different situations.

Heavier is better. Things that do a good job at thermal insulation do not block sound � and generally speaking, things that do a decent job at blocking sound are not used for thermal insulation. Thermal protection Foam Lab Deck Boat Diy Foam Lab Deck Boat Diy Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab is done with things that are soft, light, and fluffy � like standard wall insulation.

These types of products are mostly air, which is why they offer the thermal protection they are used for. Considering they are mostly air, and sound travels through air � sound goes right through insulation. If there is an air space that connects the two rooms, that is the easiest path of least resistance for the sound to get from one room to the next. The air space under and around the door can be a significant area that the sound uses to get out of the room.

If the sound is, in fact, going through the wall, the best way to proceed is to use the heaviest building material that you have access to and simply make the wall separating the two rooms heavier. I would suggest, however, to throw out all of the assumptions you have about sound and Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab how it works and listen VERY critically to the problem before buying anything.

Find the weakest link in the room and start there. Thanks for your great acoustic and sound articles! They are very informative and I enjoy reading them. Currently, I am assigned to reduce the echo in a multipurpose hall. Hall dimension is ft. It echoes like crazy and a nightmare for any soundman. By the way, it is a concrete floor. Due to budget constraint, my plan is to use used egg trays egg cartons not the egg crate foam to cover 3 sides of the wall in hope that the conical shape of egg trays may deflect the sound wave thus reducing the echo.

I am not sure whether this will work though. Can you give any opinion on this method? Thank you so much. Thanks so much, I am glad to hear you enjoy my articles. They are probably formed to the Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Deck Lab Boat Foam Diy Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab shape of the egg and made out of a hard, stable material.

Think of it this way� take a bunch of your trays and put them on the wall. Stand a few feet away and throw a ping-pong or rubber ball at them. The ball will bounce off the tray with quite a bit of energy. Probably the same amount of energy it would if it were bouncing off the drywall.

Now, instead of your trays, put a sleeping bag or some other soft blanket on the wall instead. The soft, light, fluffy nature of the fabric-like material will absorb the energy of the ball.

The same works with acoustics. So, I would strongly suggest exploring some type of cost-effective acoustical panel. Check out this article that discusses acoustics in multipurpose rooms. It goes over a little more on the hows and whys as well as having a testimonial at the end. Hi Ted, To begin with Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab thanks for this webpage. My problem is with the kitchen, there is no sound absorption in it.

It is 17 x 15 with 9ft ceilings, painted wood floors and one wall is nothing but wooden doors, leading to the upstairs, downstairs, a bathroom and a pantry. There are also 2 doors on one wall and one on another. There are also 4 windows in the room. This leaves very little wall space. The room echoes with all the conversations when having more than 4 people speaking. I would like to stay away from ceiling tiles made for this purpose.

My question is how many wall panels would be needed and how big do they have to be to help with the sound absorption. I found information on how to make them. I am just not sure if i have enough wall space to place the adequate amount of panels to fix the problem. My husband would like Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab to ad beams to ceiling in hopes that those would help. I have enough wall space for possibly 5 � 30x20inch panels.

Would this be enough? I would like to make them look more like art pieces than the standard panels. Please help! Any info would be appreciated!

Thanks, Mary. Mary, Thanks for the comment. As I have mentioned before, treating residential spaces can be extremely challenging because in order to absorb the sound, you HAVE to cover up some of the reflective surfaces with an absorptive surface. Which, of course, means changing the way the room looks.

I wish I did! Considering the cubic volume of the room and the surfaces that make up the space, I would suggest starting with forty-five or fifty square feet of panels.

The panels mentioned above would cover approximately twenty-one square feet of this, so about half. There is no way that twenty-one square feet would make the problem worse, Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Boat Deck Diy Lab Foam Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Deck Boat Diy Lab Foam Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab but it may or may not introduce a noticeable reduction to the room. It literally sounds like its coming from my unit. Is their anything I can do to minimize this? Preferably something that can be removed later.

There is a product that I can suggest for this, but I must state that blocking sound is something that needs to be done fairly specifically to be done at all.

This basically means that you could potentially get a product on the floor of their laundry room and still have a problem. Sound travels via the path of least resistance, so if there is an easier path for the sound to use than coming straight through the floor like a duct, pipe chase, etc you may or may not get enough reduction to notice a difference.

I would start with a layer of Quiet Floor NP , which is a rubber-based roll of recycled car tires. If you would Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Boat Foam Diy Deck Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Lab Deck Boat Diy Foam like a sample or quote for a sheet or two, feel free to let me know. Thanks, Ted. Dear Ted thank you so much for very valuable info! There are a lot of people who will apprecciate an answer on my question. The problem is for frontloaders washers that they vibrate more than top loaders. What should I place on the floor under machine to reduce vibration to my neighbor downstairs?

Should I place an absorptive material on the walls? I will paitiently wait for your response before buying machine. Sincerely, [email protected]. There are a few different ways to approach a situation like this. In order to get you a more concrete answer to your question, I am going to need to get an idea of the overall weight of the machine s at their heaviest.

The easiest and lowest-performing approach would be to put a layer of Acoustik on the floor directly below the machines. I Diy Boat Deck Foam LabDiy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab > have also had previous customers install simple spring isolators under a piece of plywood to essentially make a new, floating floor. I am trying to sound abate my Honda civic before installing an after market audio system. With which materials should I treat the doors, especially the two front that have the speakers?

As you might know, there are two layers of metal and holes in the inner sheet metal. I have planned to use dynamat and a MLV. Is there a critical role for foam, especially in order to maximize the dynamic range of the mid-woofer speakers in the two front doors?

I had to defer to my co-worker, Mike, on this one as he is a much better resource for a situation like this. Mike owned a very high end car audio company for quite a few years. This is what he has to say:. I would recommend using our VMAX product on all Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab your door skins, covering the entire area behind the door panel.

You will want to cover all the open holes in the door kin so that you separate the front of the speaker from the rear of the speaker as best as possible. You will simply use a razor blade to cut small openings for wires, latches, etc. This sealed design will allow for a better low frequency response from your speakers and a louder response with less distortion.

The VMAX material will reduce all the vibrations in the metal door structure and create the separation needed. To enhance and control the back wave of the speaker, you can glue a small piece of our Sound Silencer to the inner door skin directly behind the speaker, if space is allowed.

Using typical foam in the door cavity will create problems due to water and moisture that will enter your door cavity. The Sound Silencer will not be Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab affected by these conditions. Hello Ted, Great job simplifying this stuff. Imagine a portable generator or an irrigation pump running. It makes quite some noise.

Is there any sort of material it could sit on and be less noisy? And by how much would the noise drop. Please, keep in mind mobility and portability. It would likely reduce the sound that is coming out of the bottom of the machine, bouncing off a hard surface and up toward your ear � but it would not be introducing a direct line-of-sight noise barrier that would offer the most reduction.

I am just about to start building a new Chicken Coop. I guess I would need to be concentrating on sound blocking to prevent the sound reaching the neighbours. The coop will only be 4ft by 6ft so only a small space. What materials would you suggest? Another key challenge is ventilation. Thanks if you can help. Unfortunately I Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab am not sure how to suggest you proceed. You will need to build some kind of room or enclosure around the coop and build a baffled duct system to push and exhaust air into and out of the enclosure.

Hi ted. I am a music educator and I liked your illustrations as to how to block or absorb sound. I am currently looking to equip my basement with material for sound blocking purposes. My goal is to have enough material so I can totally seal the room and not let the sound out since a rock band will be using the basement for rehearsals. In my mind, I thought that covering all the walls and ceiling with foam would do the job.

How true is that? Without a doubt, if you have a band practicing in your basement, you will hear and probably feel the bass upstairs. Foam will not reduce the sound that makes its way Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab to the rest of the house.

There is not a cheap, easy, effective way to block the sound of a band from getting upstairs. It is approx. The idea is that people praying in the room could raise their voice or play worship music maintaining privacy and not disrupting anyone outside. But now that I read your article I am confused. Thank you! Rather than re-writing the article, do you have any specific questions I could answer for you?

Panels that absorb sound within a room do not block sound, and typically, vice versa. If you were to pour water onto a sponge, it would go right through it. Sound barriers are essentially the opposite � hard, air-tight, dense and heavy. If you fixed that fish tank with new glass, the water would not pass through it. Absorbing sound and blocking sound are two very different ways to approach acoustics. Let me know what specific questions you Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab have so that I can address them specifically to hopefully add some clarity for you.

I am looking to add sound proofing materials to the conference room in my office building. Our conference room echoes so badly that we need to do something.

I was looking at the foam that looks like egg cartons? The ceiling is covered in pipes, so we were thinking that we could hang something from them just to put up some obstacles to get in the way. Thanks for the questions.

If you could send me the dimensions of the room as well as a digital picture or two, I would be happy to do what I can to help. There are methods of attachment that would allow you to get a few of our panels in place without using glue OR nails � they could be removed as if they were never there � so have hope!

And, I would be Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab happy to help. All I need is a rough idea of the dimensions of the room height, width, and depth and a few digital pictures. This would allow me to build a quick digital acoustical model of the space and estimate the number of panels or square footage needed to take the edge off. If you send me a message with your name and address I could get a few different types of panels into your hands for review. Downstairs townhome with window to loud carport parties, and indoor upstairs stomping loose floors, kitchen cookn and loud relatives.

I could throw a few things out there, but they would be simply assumptions. Acoustical treatment can only reduce things to a point � engineering and physics also need to be considered. Thanks for a clear explanation. My question. If I build my own hifi rack I want to absorb vibrational sound and environmental energy.

What materials are best Lab Deck Boat Diy Foam Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab at that? Bearing in mind that it has to carry load, sometimes of many kilos. I ask because one can find many materials used including wood, glass, metals, slate, carbon fibre, composites etc, either on their own or in combinations with each other constrained layer damping.

I am a bit confused by all of this. Your thoughts would be very welcome. I am not quite sure what you are asking, sorry. I am making an assumption that you want to stop vibration transfer from one surface to another. That is not done with acoustical panels � that is something that you accomplish with a vibration isolator. A step down from that is a proper load-rated rubber isolator.

Am I looking to absorb sound then? I am going to assume that you are looking for absorption through out the room. It is important, however, to understand that by placing panels on the walls and ceilings of a room, Boat Lab Deck Foam Diy Deck Lab Boat Diy Foam Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Lab Foam Deck Boat Foam Boat Lab Diy Deck Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab the result is going to be a reduction ion the sound pressure in the room and a reduction in the reflections that a listener would hear from reflecting from the surfaces.

If two people are talking loudly, the sound from their mouth still goes straight to their ear � THAT path of sound transmission is not affected at all.

It may sound a BIT quieter because your ear will not be picking up reflections from the surfaces around them, but the only way to make people sound like they are talking softly is to ask them to talk softly. Thank you for the information in your post.

I would like to reduce the noise going to my housemates rooms that my small parrot makes. He has a high pitched squawk. The issue is that I will need to keep one side open, therefore it seems that sound blocking will just reflect the sound waves out of the Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab open side.

Can you suggest anything short of sound blocking the whole room? I was thinking of using absorption material, sandwiched with blocking material on the outer side, around the cage and facing the cage away from neighboring housemates.

I could then line the whole room with something cheaper. What would be the best combination? Many thanks in advance. In order to block the sound from the bird, you are going to need a fully-enclosed room.

If you have any common air space that connects a listener to the noise source, the sound is going to travel through the air. Thanks for the reply.

Would this change the frequency of a noise audible to an outside listener? You may see a small amount of reduction on the outside of the room by introducing absorption and lowering the sound pressure and strength that you have in the room, but it will ALWAYS be more effective to use a Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Lab Diy Boat Foam Deck Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab BARRIER type product to block sound than it will with an absorber. Useful article. I have been diagnosed with severe hyperacusis and i live in india.

Any help would save my life not exaggerating. Thanks for the comments. Unfortunately, I am not familiar with the common and available building materials in India, but the physics that I mentioned in the article are going to be consistent and applicable wherever you are. You first need to make your wall as airtight as possible � sealing any and all gaps and cracks anywhere they might be present.

After that, it comes down to mass and density � the heavier something is, the more sound it is going to block. You may benefit greatly from covering your windows with wood or brick and making them as airtight as possible. Sorry I am not able to offer more help. Please let me know if you have any more questions. I read Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab that vacuum blocks sound.

If you have air, you have sound. You can not have one and not have the other. Sound travels through air. Thanks for the above article. We live in an old building, ground floor flat.

It is very small so any noise upstairs, and there is a lot � especially at weekends � travels through the whole house. I had a brainwave this morning which requires the advice of an expert such as yourself to check it is even conceivable unfortunately probably not but I have to try!

I wondered about a sound proof capsule that we could sleep in. Have you ever heard of such a concept? Would it work? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. This is affecting my health greatly.

Creating a sleeping chamber may or may not help � it really depends on two factors � 1 how the chamber is built and 2 the severity and nature of Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Foam Boat Deck Lab Diy Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab the problem.

You could absolutely build a room within a room which, I assume, is your thought. There are a few very important things to consider, though. In a situation like this, it has its challenges. The first thing to consider is airflow. In order to block sound, you have to block air, which is typically needed while sleeping. One thing to consider is that if there is a fire, you will not hear the fire alarm, which could be a really bad situation.

When I mentioned the type or nature of the problem, the reduction of the sound is going to be directly relative to frequency high vs low pitch of the sound as well as whether or not this is a vibration-borne structure energy.

If the nature of the problem is sound created by a sub-woofer or bass drum, it will be incredibly hard to reduce effectively due to the length of the sound wave. If Deck Lab Diy Foam BoatDiy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Deck Boat Lab Foam Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab g> the structure is literally and physically shaking, you will need to build this room on spring isolators to decouple it from the structure. If this is something you would like to explore more, considering the factors above, please let me know and we can discuss wall construction and assembly, floor and ceiling assembly, and ventilating the space.

In the s I owned and remodeled redesigned a small two bedroom condominium. It originally had walls of wire mesh and a plaster wall for one bedroom and a sliding wooden panel in the other bedroom for a wall between that bedroom and living room.

There was a small bathroom between the two bedrooms. The doors to the bathroom and bedrooms were hollow core. I used metal frames and sheet rock for walls in all spaces. It worked great. Could knock hard on the sheetrock between any room and just barely hear a sound on the other side. The Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab floors and ceiling were concrete. Hung ceiling tiles on frames in one bedroom but the concrete ceiling sagged so much it was very difficult to set the frame; so I used ceiling tiles glued to the ceiling in the other parts of the apartment.

The glued ones seem to work fine. Also, made sure when using ceramic flooring tile or wood to isolate the apartment below. Hi Ted, I am building a small Anechoic chamber in my home for use in sleep study and sensory deprivation for the induction of lucid states, an area when I have extensive understanding and a life time of experience. I have an external chamber lined and sound proofed and soon to begin constructing the internal chamber which will have an internal volume of approx.

I am wanting to create an environment that is as quiet as possible for maximum sensory deprivation and from this base look at potential sleep chamber design.Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Deck Diy Lab Boat Foam Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Lab Deck Foam Boat

The is no internal noise generation other than what my body will produce, blood flow, hear beat and other organ noise. Look forward to any advice you may have for an echo absorbing wall lining Cheers Peter.

There are a few different ways to approach a situation like this, depending on what you want the space to look like and how much work you want to do. Because of the foam itself, the size, and the shipping charges � this can be a quite costly way to go. You could also look at stacking up a few layers of the Bass Buster or Ultra Touch insulation , both of which are cotton-based products.

Although these cotton products can, technically, be used as a finished surface, you would probably want to cover them with a stretch-fabric system to encapsulate the dust particles that are inherent to cotton-based products and also to create a more finished look. I lease one Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab room in an office suite where I would like to block sound coming from the lobby like conversations when I am in my office.

I have a hollow core interior door. I am leasing the office space so I cannot make major modifications. I was wondering if there is something that can be attached to the inside of the door that would help. I am a hypnotherapist, and even though I already use white noise machines, I can still hear occasional voices outside my door when people walk by. I currently use a door sweep at the bottom of the door but I quickly realized that is not enough since the sound mostly comes through the door itself.

Is there any type of board or something similar preferably white like the door, that could be nailed to the door? I will do my best to explain and help, but if you have any questions or wish to Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab Diy Boat Deck Foam Lab talk about the problem for a few minutes, please feel free to call.

Sound always travels via the path of least resistance, which it sounds like you know. You may benefit from an adjustable door seal kit, or maybe not.

The door seal kit will not inhibit the use of the door like weather stripping will because of the ability to adjust the pressure and amount of contact. It might be something to look into. But, to answer your question, there is a direct relationship between the mass and density of a surface and the amount of sound that it blocks. The heavier the better � which is why a heavy solid-core door blocks more sound than a light hollow-core door.

I have sold quite a few acoustical quilted curtain panels that have been attached to a track over the door and slid into place like a barn door sliding from left-to-right when the soundproofing is needed.

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